вопрос про мозги топливной системы F1

Лечение мозгов
ECM Zombie Wire Instructions



Disclaimer

First, as directed by cousel: All Information here are for informational purposes only. I make no representation as to the accuracy, completeness, suitability
or validity of any information. I will not be held liable for any errors, omissions, or any losses, injuries or damages arising from doing this. All information is
provided AS IS with no warranties and confers no rights. Because the information I have provided on these instructions are based on my personal opinion
and experience, it shall not be considered professional advice. If you do not feel comfortable doing this procedure, DON'T.



Information

This is only for the knock sensors and circuits, nothing else. This is to correct the wiring for the knock sensor circuit from the ECM to the sensor ground. This
new wire will correct the knock circuit. 1) By installing this wire on your current working ECM you can benefit with a "cleaner" signal, and possibly prevent
premature failure. 2) By installing this wire on your current ECM with FI codes 25 or 26, can possibly bring your ECM knock circuit back into tolerence and
remove the codes, and still work properly as long as the ECM has not failed completely. 3) By removing this wire, it will bypass the knock circuit in the ECM
and set no codes or go into "limp" mode, but will not detect knock any longer as long as the ECM has not failed completely. This may not work for every
failed ECM depending on damage.



There are basically 6 stages of this ECM code 25 or 26 failure.

1) The ECM is working fine.

2) The ECM has set code 25 or 26.

3) ECM has not set code 25 or 26 after wire procedure (back in tolerance)

4) ECM still sets code 25 or 26 after wire procedure. (partial failure)

5) ECM will bypass knock sensor with logic ground removed. (partial failure)

6) ECM will not bypass and still sets code 25 or 26. (complete failure)



Parts List

Four feet of 18-20 ga wire

Ring Connector with 8 mm 5/16 hole

Female spade connectors for switch

Switch

Heat shrink tubing



Tool List

Dental Pick for removing connector from plug

Wire Strippers with crimper or crimp tool

Soldering iron, solder and paste

10 mm ratchet and socket



Instructions

I will not get into the explanation of what "knock" is or the circumstances that create it. For further information on this subject, research "engine
knock/ping", "pre-ignition" and "detonation". Very similar, but different causes and effects.



Now, assuming you have removed the shelter and removed the ECM from the housing, let's start.

1) Looking at the ECM as pictured with the plug locking tabs facing you and the black plug on the right, the wire you are looking for is the fourth one from
the left on the black connector. It is a green wire with silver bands. There are 3 wires in this connector with that color.




2) There are two options here; remove the connector from the plug carefully or cut the wire with the connector still in the plug.

Removing the wire from the connector will make it easier to solder the new wire on. But, if you have an extra set of hands to hold the wires still while they
are attached to the plug, you can solder it like that, as well. Cut the wire about 1-1/2 inch from the back of the connector to allow room for the wire seal
and the heat shirink tubing to be installed next.

3) After you have cut the wire, fold the green wire back and tuck it into the harness. It is no longer used or needed.

Using your fingers, slightly pinch the wire and apply slight force to the back of the connector at the same time. Whlie holding this position, use a dental pick,
insert tip and drag it down the face of the connector until you feel it stop.

Slightly tip the dental pick to unlock the tab. You should feel the wire release from the back of the connector. Caution: If you do not feel comfortable doing
this, cut the wire and solder it into position while still attached to the connector.




4) Get a piece of 18-20 ga wire, about 2 feet long. Strip your connector wire and the new wire about 1/4 inch to expose the wire on each end. Slide a piece
of heat shrink tubing onto the wire that is about 1 inch to 1-1/4 inches long. Intertwine the exposed wired together and solder them. After this is done,
slide the heat shrink tubing over the exposed joint and seal it with heat. Install the new wire back into the connector into the ECM leaving the other end
untouched.




Seal

Green wire with Silver

Band

New Wire

Shrink Tubing


5)Engine ground: Take another piece of wire about 2 feet long and strip about 5/16 inch from the end. Fold the exposed wire in half and insert into the
connector and crimp. The connector needs an 8 mm or 5/16 inch hole to be used on the engine bolt. Remove 10 mm engine bolt shown and install ground
connector. Run wire up chassis with other cables and wire out of the way.




6)Install the ECM back into its housing. Run the new wire alongside the harness and zip tie it into place. This prevents unknowingly

snagging the wire pulling it out by accident.




7) Put the bike back together leaving the left control panel out with your new wires hanging out of the opening.




On the control panel there is an area behind it that will provide a location for a small toggle switch. Use a small toggle switch so you can

1) Physically see its position (on or off) 2) So you don't hit it with your knee while mounting. Install the toggle switch here.

(I used a push on-push off on my bike as the electrical supplier did not have the switch I wanted so I ordered one.)



Toggle Switch


9) Trim the remaining wires to provide enough slack to remove the control panel for future disassemblies. Install connectors for your

switch.




You now have a correct connection for the knock sensor circuit logic ground. You now have the ability to keep your current ECM working

as designed and reduce the load on the circuit.

You can now possibly bring an ECM with codes 25 or 26 back into tolerance and start to work correctly again without setting the codes

and going into limp mode.

You now have a way to bypass a failed ECM that has set the codes without going into limp mode.



Operation

If your current ECM is good, there is nothing further to do but make sure the switch is "ON".



If your ECM has set the code 25 or 26, adding this new wire can/could bring the knock circuit back into tolerance without setting the codes aka

"zombifying" it back to life with the switch on.



If your ECM still sets the code 25 or 26 after installing the wire, you can bypass the knock circuit by turning the switch off. The ECM will no

longer detect knock in bypass mode.



If your ECM still sets the codes in bypass mode, your ECM has completely failed and will have to be replaced.



To operate the switch, the ignition must be off. This resets the ECM each time it is turned off. Cut the switch off for bypass mode. Cut the

ignition on and start the engine. This does not clear codes in the stored memory. They do not affect the operation of the engine.



I would like to Thank Marc Durben from North Carolina, Aaron Whitfield from South Carolina, and Robert Hill from Florida for providing

me with the ECMs to test and find this solution to the 01-05 Honda Goldwing ECM issue.

I would like to espcecially thank my wife Brandi Proffitt for all she has done and put up with during this time. (and for typing this out). I love you.

интересная инфа. посмотрел для саморазвития. )
мужик молодец, но и это еще все надо нарыть, тестить и т.д. )
ну а по факту, просто прямая линия земли, и вырубить сигнальную землю с линии дд. ) если коротко. для полутрупов эбу. )